AZ Factory SS 2022

Alber Elbaz "My Body" Dress

The show opened with Elbaz's own work. The first product from AZ Factory is a little black dress he called My Body, which he developed in a fabric that he intended to complement every figure. They have the fancy loop zippers like the one we saw on Jennifer Hudson, which are easier to deal with singlehandedly, and can be yours... for like $1k-2k. The price is basically the figure it doesn't flatter. ZING. Anyway.

Alaia

We begin with a Very Important Designer, whose loving tribute involved the pubic triangle.

McQueen

Sarah Burton did a coat-dress -- very much a McQueen signature -- enhanced by embroidery and some ruffles, which Vogue says are an Elbaz staple.

Balenciaga

This was a tribute to volume. It's interesting to see the ways people chose to honor him that are also smack in their wheelhouses.

Olivier Rousteing (Balmain)

That is, naturally, an Elbaz portrait underneath this mighty-shouldered jacket. (I actually quite LIKE the jacket.)

Bottega Veneta

It was nice to see bright, shocking green in here.

Burberry

It's so funny to see this after looking at the Spring 2022 Burberry runway show, which was... not this.

Casablanca

This is quite pretty and flirty.

Chloe

Much like with the Met Gala, I need a pamphlet to understand what everyone's inspiration was, as Elbaz's library of work is not as familiar to me. Vogue and WWD and CR Fashion Book explained some of them, but none tackled this one.

Christian Dior

It's easier to understand this one -- the bodice resembles a heart, and the skirt is just an absolute party. I actually really want someone to wear it? It's so much FUN. Dior is not always light-hearted. Maybe even rarely.

Christopher John Rogers

And this is of course absolutely right from him, and ALSO something I want to see on a red carpet.

Comme des Garcons

That's all Mickey and Minnie Mouse, right?

Dries Van Noten

I can't imagine anyone wearing this, but it'd be GREAT in a museum exhibit, and I do hope someone is beginning to cultivate one that spans his career and ends with as many of these dresses as they can get.

Fendi

This truly feels like a sister piece to what Burberry did, in a way that makes me wonder if they're both evoking a specific outfit from the archives.

Giambattista Valli

Also interesting: that Valli, who typically engages in fabrics that are bright and light and lively, went all dark. (And needs a hoik.)

Giorgio Armani

That's such a lovely, graceful ruffle.

Givenchy

That's... you know. Great in a fashion show.

Alessandro Michele (Gucci)

Ditto.

Guo Pei

What a treat to get Guo Pei involved.

Hermes

Okay, so apparently, this is based on an Hermes scarf pattern that actually IS a sketch of Elbaz. Per Vogue: It is "a print originally designed by artist Dimitri Rybaltchenko that depicted Elbaz at the window of the storied Lanvin flagship building, the Hermès’s neighbor on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore where he worked for 15 years from 2001."

Iris Van Herpen

Iris here is just being Iris, but I am always cool with more Iris. That skirt is just stunning. The way the hem falls... absolutely, that is cut with love.

Jean Paul Gaultier

It's perfect to me that he did a sculptural 3D ode to hearts.

Lanvin

I wish we had a shot of this from behind, because it's a picture of Alber Elbaz. I recommend watching the montage of the first half of the show, because you see bits and bobs of how the models moved in these, and this clip ends with the Lanvin stunner -- you really see how diaphanous it is, and there's an overhead of the back.

Loewe

This is also hilariously so different (and honestly better) than Loewe's actual show.

Louis Vuitton

This must have taken a great deal of restraint on LV's part. No embroidery in sight.

Maison Margiela

Well, the dress is neat.

Off White

This one is very dramatic, and warmly silly, and everything you want on a catwalk.

Raf Simons

Boring, but present and accounted for!

Ralph Lauren

The bow tie is an Elbaz signature, but like... of COURSE Ralph Lauren put the damn Polo bear on this (albeit in a bow tie of his own). I'm surprised he didn't put the giant man on the horse. He cannot resist his own ego -- oops, I mean logo.

Rick Owens

DRAMATIC.

Rosie Assoulin

She apparently interned for Elbaz, and this piece of whimsy is inspired by his glasses (the bodice) and his signature jacket and bow tie. Totally goofy, but also totally apt.